Jim, (hope it is okay to use first names).

What noise reduction program/plug-in is considered a good one? Also, can you tell me what processing program is best to use for shooting in RAW?

Thank you.
L

Hi Lucy, yep first names are fine. I'll answer to just about anything.

Noise Ninja is what I use.
Neat Image is also pretty well respected as is NIK Define.

These and a few more are reviewed here: http://www.photographyreview.com/cat/dig...LS_5647crx.aspx

As for RAW processing, I prefer Lightroom, but there are a bunch out there. It's almost like asking whether Canon or Nikon is better.

All of these have trial periods available for you to see which ones you like the best. It all really boils down to what you are most comfortable working with and the only way to figure that out is to try them. Just make a back up of all your images on a separate disk before you start playing with new software.

Jim,

Do you use Photoshop along with Lightroom or does Lightroom do everything you need?

Thanks.
L

I'm moving closer and closer to an all-Lightroom work flow.

I use Photoshop for composite work and retouching (no real Lightroom alternatives here), and sharpening / noise reduction. Lightroom does have Noise reduction and sharpening capabilities, but I don't care for them.

Many of the noise reduction and sharpening programs also have plugins for Lightroom, so I could transition even further eventually.

I'm a Canon shooter. As far as lenses - I love my 24-105 for all of my studio work and some outdoor stuff. Outdoors I usually use the 50 1.4, just because the bokeh is so yummy. I rarely shoot in low light, even when I have a session in someone's home (which doesn't happen too often), but if I using natural light I use the 50 1.4. Love how sharp and contrasty it is!

As far as ISO - I shoot ISO 100 in the studio and 400 or 800 with natural light.

I saw a unique Canon Lens today. 65mm macro that starts at 1:1 and then goes up to 5:1 (starts off at life size and then goes 5 times larger than life size ) .

Lucy,
shooting action sports indoors is one of the hardest things you can do. Ask David Rameny and Jim Poor!! You have to have a fast enough shutter speed to stop the action and enough light to see black dogs as something other than blobs. That all adds up to: fast lenses, high ISOs, and excellent post-processing.

While I don't shoot a lot of agility, I do shoot a lot of Conformation candids indoors. In fact, I just finished shooting the American Rottweiler Club's National Specialty in Hollister, CA a few months ago and several people asked me to shoot candids. The venue was a dungeon! And that's another issue with indoor action photography -- the lighting varies from venue to venue. One of the worst places to shoot candids is Louisville which hosts some of the largest Conformation shows in the country.

Last year, I went there with Rowdy and shot him taking an Award of Merit at 10 years of age out of the Veterans Class. Here's a moving shot that demonstrates all the items on the list of mandatories for shooting indoor action.



Lens: 135mm F2.0. Exposure: F2.0 @ 1/350. ISO: 3,200. Image shot in RAW, processed in Photoshop CS3, Adobe Camera RAW. Noise control: Noise Ninja specifically calibrated for camera.

As you can see, with all of the above, I was barely able to stop the action. If I had been shooting Agility, I'd need at least one more stop of exposure for a black dog which means ISO 6,400 and lots of Noise Ninja.

If you're going to concentrate on action photography, I strongly suggest you practice at outdoor events which will minimize the technical issues you need to conquer at indoor events and let you focus on the action and the dogs. For that you'll need a good camera with decent frame/second burst rate (my 40D captures at 6.3 fps) and a good, sharp, fast lens -- the 70-200 F2.8 is ideal.

Shoot a few of those events and work out your technique. Personally, I'd stay away from indoor venues unless that's how you make your living.

Jim