Mount Rushmore and Devil’s Tower have been sitting on my “to-do” list for a very long time. Despite years of visiting Grand Teton National Park, the eight-hour drive to Devil’s Tower in Wyoming always seemed like too much to squeeze into limited vacation time. I imagine that’s true for most people—we have to carefully choose how to spend our time off. And honestly, I’m lucky to have a generous PTO package from my employer.

For those who know me through my landscape photography, it's worth mentioning that photography is actually my second business. My full-time job is working as a hospital social worker in New York City. This year, though, all the pieces finally lined up. The Badlands of South Dakota are only about an hour and a half from Mount Rushmore, and from there, it’s less than two and a half hours to Devil’s Tower National Monument. No more excuses—this was the year to see both of these iconic U.S. landmarks.

Custer, South Dakota: Gateway to Mount Rushmore and Custer State Park

We left Badlands National Park and headed to Mount Rushmore by way of Custer State Park. We stayed in the town of Custer at a so-called pet-friendly hotel—complete with pictures of dog bones on the beds—but still got hit with a $50 pet fee. Anyone who travels with dogs knows the reality: pet-friendly doesn’t usually mean extra amenities or even really 'friendly.' More often than not, it just means your dog is tolerated in a room that may or may not have once been a smoking room. Not that I’m bitter! LOL.

In hindsight, we probably should’ve stayed at the KOA near Mount Rushmore, just five minutes from the monument. But after all the moving around, I wasn’t feeling up to pitching a tent or booking a barebones cabin without A/C or linens. A real hotel room sounded too good to pass up.

Custer State Park, though, is a gem. If you’re road-tripping through South Dakota, don’t skip it. Admission is $25 for a seven-day pass, and it’s well worth it. The park offers scenic drives, including a wildlife loop and one featuring dramatic granite rock formations. I didn’t get to explore all of it this time—next trip.


Mount Rushmore: History, Paradox, and Awe

Mount Rushmore is exactly what you think it will be—and yet, somehow, more. And yes, it's steeped in controversy. The land it’s built on is sacred to the Lakota, who originally called it Tunkasila Šakpe Paha, or Six Grandfathers Mountain. They still consider it stolen and want it returned. Then there’s the issue of the sculptor, Gutzon Borglum, who had ties to the Ku Klux Klan. He died before the project’s completion in 1941, which was finalized by his son, Lincoln Borglum. So when you consider that this massive monument to U.S. presidents was carved into sacred Native American land by a known white supremacist—it’s no wonder the site remains controversial.

Yet, while visiting, I saw how deeply meaningful it is to so many Americans. The crowd wasn’t homogeneous either. People from all backgrounds and ethnicities stood together, honoring what they felt the monument represents: democracy, freedom, and national pride. As a New York City liberal, I am the worst kind of North East Liberal. I am an elitist and I am thoroughly jaded. I’ll freely admit that I found the endless loop of jingoistic songs to be something out of Dante's 7th Circle of Hell. You know, the one reserved for violence? The two-hour nightly lighting ceremony is also exactly what you think it will sound like. Having said all that, when the Pledge of Allegiance began, we stood in the parking lot—because dogs are only allowed up to the entrance gate—hand over heart, saying the words with everyone else. And I’ll be honest: it was real and it was heartfelt. For all of the trappings, I am so glad that I am an American and that I was born when I was. I am so fortunate. Unless you think being a New York Liberal is terrible. Then I suppose it is a curse...but it has been perfect for me.

Mount Rushmore is a paradox. It shouldn’t have been built where it was. It’s a symbol of stolen land and cultural erasure. And yet, it also represents something powerful, even spiritual, for many Americans. It’s not something to be ignored or whitewashed—it’s something to be reckoned with. Everyone should visit at least once to confront that complexity for themselves.

We stayed long enough to catch both sunset and sunrise at the monument. The weather didn’t cooperate much at night, but the sunrise was a different story. I arrived early and, to my surprise, had the entire site to myself—except for one friendly park ranger. How often does that happen? Probably a lot.

As the sun crept over the hills and the first tour buses started rolling in, I knew it was time to head out. I picked up Chanthee and the dogs from the hotel, and we hit the road for Devil’s Tower to meet my brother. As it was less than two hours from Custer to Sundance, we had time to get in town early. We stayed at the Arrowhead Motel in Sundance, Wyoming—about 40 minutes from Devil’s Tower National Monument. My brother had made the reservations, and we arrived ahead of him. The place was much nicer than expected: old, yes, but clean and full of charm. The owner, originally from Queens, had moved out west with his spouse about 20 years ago and renovated what he described as a “crime scene” into something genuinely welcoming. It was clear that his helpers had cruise ship experience, what with the candies on the bed and the folded swan towels throughout.

Sundance, Wyoming: Small Town Charm Near Devil’s Tower

Just a heads-up: dining options in Sundance are very limited. Especially if you’re vegetarian. We somehow missed the town’s Subway shop. But the dogs were thrilled with a plain burger, and Chanthee and I made do with fries. A culinary compromise, but a win all around. We ultimately ate microwave burritos at the gas station on the way back from sunset. I was really hungry and it was like manna from heaven.

Devil’s Tower: Iconic Landscapes and Dog Photography

We spent one evening photographing sunset at Devil’s Tower from the west, and the next morning catching sunrise from the east pull-off before reaching the small town around the base. This visit had been a long time coming. At about seven hours from Jackson Hole, Devil’s Tower had always felt too far—especially with all our gear in tow. But it was worth it.

I got some beautiful landscape photos, but the real joy came from photographing the dogs against that iconic backdrop. And yes, here’s the shameless plug: Wild Coyote Studio offers professional dog photography in some of the most breathtaking locations in the U.S. Backdrops just can’t compete with the real thing. And yes, I would love to write off this trip as a business expense.

We wrapped up sunrise before 7 a.m., and with nowhere open for breakfast, we bagged the meal and began the slog to Jackson Hole.