Hi James
Thanks for your kind words! I hope it is enjoyable (although short!) In answer to your question;
On safari we had a guide who drove the 4x4 - he was responsible for finding the game to view, the commentary on all the stupid questions we ask as tourists (how old is it, how much do they eat etc etc) and getting us the best view possible. To help him he has a tracker - usually a young apprentice that sits on the back of the 4x4 on a seat next to the spare wheel - he is given the job of trying to spot things that the guide misses as he is concentrating on driving. He has a vary tenuous position as he is sat outback with no protection. Our guide "Bashi" was one of the most experienced guides I have met. He left no question unanswered and knew the area so well he could always find what you wanted (no mean feet in 20,000 acres!) Now our tracker was fairly new and he was frightened of leopard and lion. We sat watching a lioness and her cubs one afternoon when the lioness moved on - she walked past our 4x4 into the bush but wasn't followed by her 3 cubs so she ended up coming back for them right past our tracker. As she got level she stopped and called them by which time her head was probably less than 12 inches away from my trackers rear end - I had stopped taking pictures as I didn't want to startle her and as I glanced at our tracker he had gone so pale I though he might pass out. The picture of one her naughty cubs is in the article (the one pulling the funny face - they had found something that smelt bad and didn't want to leave it) You obviously need to have a certain amount of common sense in when and where to take pictures.
The following day we were following a leopard and just as I was setting myself up for a beautiful shot of it drinking - it took exception to us and charged the 4x4. We were side on to it and it ran straight towards the back of the truck towards our tracker who went deathly pale again. He allowed himself a nervous grin only once he was sure that he had both arms and legs. This time I could have stroked it if I had put my hand out. Unfortunatley this time events were quicker than I and I didn't get the shot.
The final time of note was when we were watching a herd of elephants in the river. When they had finished drinking they all walked past the 4x4 but started to edge closer. We had been allowed out of the vehicle to get a better view but when the matriarch came towards us, Bashi asked that we quietly returned to the truck. It slowly ambered up and then stopped its enormous body almost leaning alongside us. It then sniffed all four of us slowly and deliberatley its trunk flicking around our heads. Whether it was his aftershave or not this grand matriarch seemed to prefer the smell of our poor tracker who had to sit perfectly still with his body almost next to two huge tusks. Quite incredible! I think he was pleased when Jane and I left the country!
This pictures show us with one of our many flat tyres. Just to the right of Jane (on the right hand side of the picture) you can see a small seat and cushion - this is the trackers seat - totally exposed! You can also see that with no doors you get fabulous views but are open to the elements (ie dust) and also to wayward elephants!
So if you bear in mind I struggled with the 300mm lens as it was too long for most shots you can get an idea that I was really close. None of the pictures I have submitted are cropped - they are all full frame. The only time I needed a longer lens was for some of the shots of birds (although all the ones I have included in the article are on the 300mm).
If anyone is interested in going to Mashatu I will happily forward details - it is quite honestly the best game viewing I have ever had. Its going to be very hard to beat that.
