Roman,
first of all, it works. And if you hadn't said it was HDR I doubt anybody would have guessed. It has DR, depth, balance and lots of detail but no grittiness.

My own opinion of HDR and Tone Mapping is that if it enhances an image -- and you do it with subtlety -- it's just another tool in the photo toolbox. Some images benefit from it. Some don't. And, like any other tool, you have to know how to use it to use it properly. Just like sharpening.

I never advertise my use of HDR or Tone Mapping. If folks ask if an image has been mapped, then I'll be happy to admit it but the minute you "confess" to the sin of HDR/Tone Mapping, folks tend to look for what's wrong with the image instead of looking at it to see what's right. JMHO. Lovely work as always.

Jim