Diane,
I'm in the same boat as you with SmugMug.
I think I've settled on ZenFolio as my choice. I just spent an hour watching one of their online seminars about customization and it seems much simpler than SmugMug. Not quite as many options as SmugMug but those are options I can live without.
As for migration software, I've found the solution to that too. Upload Junction

"A man's soul can be judged by the way he treats his dog."
-- Charles Doran