Thanks Jim, so you set your exposure before the dog is set up? How do you do that without the dog there? (what do you meter off of?) I found going, say, between the newf and the golden a big difference in exposure, plus I was using two different backdrops with each dog, the darker gray and lighter golds. So with each change of dog and each change of backdrop I was having to take a test shot of the dog, check the histogram, fiddle with the strobe settings, take another test shot, etc etc until the dog was flat. My thinking is the flash meter would take care of that problem? Or maybe I"m doing something wrong since you said you basically don't have to change your settings?

It sounds like my lighting set up, distance, etc is very similar to yours (about 10 feet, lights at 45 degrees...).

I can see where RAW would help me then, most of my shots happened to be overexposed a touch and I did lose a few highlights. I'll definitely try RAW.

I think you are right about the f stops referring to the strobe settings, that is what I'm not sure how it works...but I'll keep plugging away! I was just reading how to light the background for high key so the subject still has a bit of shadow beneath them to avoid that floating look. (if I can make it happen is another story! )

Yes I can see where I would be confusing you LOL. I switched subjects on you, I was referring to when I use the 200 1.8 indoors at shows to shoot moving and candid shots in the ring (so no flash or strobes), the flourescent light cycles so one shot will be very gold and the next very blue.

I'm sure giving you a workout with all these questions! But I am absorbing and much appreciate your advice.